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Antiguo 26-Jul-2011, 16:35   #16
Gaitan420
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Re: Respuesta: Ajuste y calibracion de valvulas en que afecta?

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Iniciado por El Barto Ver Mensaje
Vos y el teggy 97 (3ª generación)

también se calibra????

Bna onda

No sé dónde buscar

Valve lash adjustment

Posted 10-17-2002 at 12:00 AM by SurferX
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To maintain the performance of your motor, it's a good idea to do frequent valve lash adjustments to make sure your valvetrain stays in good shape. If your engine has become a bit chattery it is possible that your valve lashes have gone too far out of spec and should be readjusted.

Standard tools
Ratchet
10mm and 19mm sockets
5/8" deep socket or spark plug socket
Super long ratchet extension
Floor jack (stock jack will do)
12mm box end wrench and flathead screwdriver (for B18B motors only)

Specialty tools
Angled feeler gauges
Tappet locknut wrench/adjuster - 10mm (for B18C motors only)

The locknut wrench is needed to hold the jam nut in place and the adjuster is for turning the adjustment screw on B18C motors. Honda has a specific tappet locknut wrench and adjuster, the part numbers are 07MAA-PR70110 and 07MAA-PR70120.

Since the Honda tools are expensive, both Snap-on and Harbor Freight carry more affordable and IMHO better tools for the job. You will want an adjuster for 10mm jam nuts for B18C motors only.

B18B motors do not need a special tappet locknut wrench/adjuster since the jam nut is placed higher up within reach. All you need is a 12mm box-end wrench and flathead screwdriver to do the job. Thanks to member TKBLAZER for confirmation of this info.

For the feeler gauges you will need 45 degree angled feelers. Make sure the feeler gauge set has the specific feeler range you need for your motor. Be careful not to mix up inches with milimeters when looking at the range on the package as there are many different sizes of feeler gauges.

Valve clearance specs

B18A
INTAKE: 0.006" - 0.007" (0.15mm - 0.19mm)
EXHAUST: 0.007" - 0.008" (0.17mm - 0.21mm)

B18B
INTAKE: 0.003" - 0.005" (0.08mm - 0.12mm)
EXHAUST: 0.006" - 0.008" (0.16mm - 0.20mm)

B18C
INTAKE: 0.006" - 0.007" (0.15mm - 0.19mm)
EXHAUST: 0.007" - 0.008" (0.17mm - 0.21mm)

NOTES:

-The engine must be completely cold to do a proper valve adjustment. You don't want any leftover heat in the motor so it's best if you do this after the motor has been sitting overnight.

-If you have adjustable cam gears, it is not necessary to reset them at 0,0 to adjust the valves as long as the cam adjustment isn't wild enough enough to begin opening the valves at TDC.

Remove the specified 10mm bolts and also remove the washers underneath. Then pull out the plug wires and valve cover breather. To pull off the valve cover, pull up on the front tab to get it loose. Don't try to pry the cover off as you can damage the outside of the head.



Wipe off excess oil around the plug openings to prevent dripping oil into the combustion chamber. Then use your socket extension and 5/8" deep socket or spark plug socket to remove the spark plugs. If you don't have a spark plug socket you can use the end of the plug wires to pull the plugs out.





Since you will need to turn the motor manually, you need to access the crank pulley bolt from the behind the driver side fenderliner. You will need to raise the front of your car or at least the front driver side until the wheel is out of the way enough to reach the bolt on the crank pulley.

There is a little opening allowing you to access the pulley bolt but I ended up dropping the socket inside the fenderliner so I just removed the two screws and moved the fenderliner out of the w. As you can see I needed two long wobble extensions to reach. You can remove the wheel if you don't have long enough extensions and you'll be able to get much closer to the bolt. The crank pulley bolt is 19mm.




Turn the motor counter-clockwise until cylinder 1 is at TDC. You will be able to tell by both the white mark on the crank pulley and by the marks on the cam gears. The gears may not appear to be straight but don't worry about that and only worry about lining up the marks on the teeth. If you over turn, don't try to turn the motor backwards, just keep turning another 2 rotations of the crank until you get back to your TDC point.

[img]http://www.team-integra.net/images/BAEC1978-D3A7-440]




Take out your feeler gauges, be very careful you don't have two feelers stuck together as they are very thin and it's easy to make that mistake. Slide the correct feeler gauge between the cam lobe and lifter. For example, if your range is .006-.007, the clearance is good if the .006 feeler fits and the .007 feeler does NOT fit. If the .007 fits or the .006 does not fit, then the clearance needs adjusting. You want to make it so the smaller of the two feelers fits and the larger doesn't. Ov time your clearances will likely loosen, I've never seen any case of them tightening so tighten as much as you can to fit that smaller feeler in.

If the clearance is good, then leave it and move on to the next valve. If it is out of spec, loosen the jam nut and position your tappet adjuster so that you can turn the adjustment screw while holding the jam nut in place.

Slide the feeler back and forth and tighten the adjustment screw until it starts to drag. The feeler may catch as you are trying to pull it out but that doesn't mean it's too tight. Slide the feeler back in again making sure you still feel a good drag. Sometimes after re-positioning the feeling you realize there is still more room to tighten.

To be sure you've adjusted the clearance correctly, try using the next size up feeler. Again, you should NOT be able to fit the larger feeler in, if it is able to slide in then the clearance is too loose and still needs to be tightened.

Re-tighten the jam nut, making sure the adjustment screw stays in place. Check the clearance again after the jam nut is tightened, sometimes the clearance can change even if you thought you held the screw in place. If all is good move on and check the next valve.



After you are done with the 4 valves on cylinder 1, move on to cylinder 3, 4, then 2, in that order. You will need to crank the motor to TDC for each of the cylinders you will be adjusting. Do the same process as before on each of the cylinders.



Once you're finished, re-install spark plugs and torque to 13 lbs-ft. Insert the rubber gasket and plug seals back into the val cover and reattach cover to cylinder head. Torque nuts to 7.2 lbs-ft, don't forget your ground wire. Be careful to not overtorque the nuts as they strip very easily. Re-attach plug wires and don't forget the valve cover breather and fenderwell if you removed part of it.
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